Posts Tagged ‘2011’

Fashion | Smithestablishmentarianism?

Tuesday, July 26th, 2011

Paul Smith & Henry Moore
Autumn/Winter 2011 Fashion Collection

I got married in a Paul Smith suit. Not unusual now, when even Nick Clegg wears one for work, but that was in 1981. Paul, himself, sold the suit to me. Upstairs at his first, tiny shop in Floral Street where I was a regular visitor – having first bought his clothes from Bombacha (his wife’s shop) in the Fulham Road when I was still a student at the Royal College of Art – Paul went down on his knees and pinned-up the bottoms of the trouser legs so that they sat, just so, on my Bass-Weejuns.

It’s been Sir Paul Smith, of course, since the designer bent his knee before the Queen in 2000 to receive his well-earned knighthood, thus becoming part of the establishment. The sculptor, Henry Moore (1898 – 1986), however, fearing that the bestowal would lead to a perception of him as an establishment figure, turned down a knighthood in 1951. I wonder, then, how Henry might have felt about wearing the tie (above), from the Paul Smith Autumn/Winter 2011 fashion collection.

Having been granted unprecedented access by the Henry Moore Foundation to Moore’s graphics, drawings and sculpture archive, Smith, who has long been a fan, used the artist’s original artworks in contrasting patterns, colours and textures across a range of  clothing and accessories. The fluid lines and shapes, too, in this collection pay homage to Moore’s sculptural aesthetic.

Photographed in the early evening, in March this year, at RHS Wisley in Surrey, the image below is my own homage to Henry Moore.

See more of my photographic work at Pedro Silmon Garden Photography

Do you think we’ll see Nick Clegg in one?

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Photography | Big Nudes

Friday, June 24th, 2011

Le Imaginaire du Nu
Hotel Drouot, Paris. Exhibition 27th & 28th June 2011. Sale 28th June

Nudes, especially as a subject for books, exhibitions and auctions, are big right now, especially in France. Not that the nudes themselves are huge in proportions, you understand, with the possible exception of the amazons in high stilettos in Helmut Newton’s classic, Big Nudes (1990) that is among a list of 10 books on this particular génre of photography selected for La Lettre de la Photographie by photographer and collector, Bruno Mouron, prompted, almost certainly, by the huge up coming auction and exhibition L’imaginaire du Nu at Hôtel Drouot in Paris.

Early daguerreotypes and prints will be sold back to back with photographs from the beginning and middle of the 20th century: Bill Brandt, Robert Doisneau, Horst, Krull, Man Ray, Willy Ronis and contemporary works by, among others, Araki, Bourdin, Ralph Gibson, David Hamilton, Sam Haskins, Horvat, Lindbergh, George Platt-Lynes, Jeanloup Sieff, Bert Stern and Joel Peter Witkin. The majority, as might be expected, are images of women but male nudity is also represented in pictures by, for example, Bruce of Los Angeles and Robert Mapplethorpe.

Interesting to note, though, that despite the current vogue, we’re already halfway through the year and Mapplethorpe’s Nudes 2011 calender, which includes graphic black and white images of both males and females of our species is still available from Te Neues.

Pamela Hanson, Carla Bruni, Vogue Hommes, 1994, top
Man Ray, Meret Oppenheim, 1935, below

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